The KIndness of Strangers

The Return Begins

Martin's River - Early morning a moment of tranquility before the drive back

After 12,900km our outward journey has ended and Tuesday 26th we commenced our return.  It has been an epic trip.  

At its widest point (Yukon to Newfoundland) Canada is 5514 km, but of course that does not represent the driving distance and we were much further south where it is not as wide.  Our transit was about 9,000km, the rest was taken up with side trips and exploring.   

Outbound we have been on the road 82 days, stayed at 33 campsites, consumed a lot of fuel, and in the first two weeks, a lot of duct tape!   See blog June 20th.  Apart from the glass sunroof getting smashed by a stone ten minutes into the trip; the refrigerator dumping our food all over the floor after traversing 19 km of corrugated iron on a unmade road diversion; a shower room door dropping off it's runners (for the same reason); getting whacked in the shin by one of the anti-roll bars on the trailer hitch; dumping the black tank over me after forgetting to close the valve; and Fred attracting most of the mosquitoes in Canada, it has been fun.  

We've learnt a lot about RVing, made mistakes, got lost, endured amazing thunderstorms and rain and been baked in 38C temps.  We have made new friends and been bowled over by the kindness of strangers after my argument with the trailer hitch.  

At our penultimate campsite when the leg flared up for no apparent reason, a seasonal camper from Dartmouth NS, who was a retired pharmacist, suggested some medical advice to Fred while I was out getting it patched up at the hospital and checked on my progress daily.  One day she even brought her camp neighbour over, a practising nurse, to check it over.  Ignoring my protestations about caring and giving their time they just retorted that they were Nova Scotians!

Mahone Bay

We loved the Maritimes and Nova Scotia particularly.  Our final 2-night camp base for touring lower NS was at Rayport Campground alongside a drying out creek (until it rained that night), placing us close to Lunenburg and Mahone Bay.  The coastal scenery was just stunning.  

We explored Mahone Bay the day we arrived and had an early supper at the Naked Oyster, checking out the seafood.  It was an attractive old town with views across the bay.  It was clearly high on the tourist list.  

Monday 25th, our final full day in NS, we explored Stonehurst South and then on to Lunenburg.

The iconic walk to his house - originally red, now blue

Stonehurst South* is where much of the Jesse Stone movies with Tom Selleck were filmed and whilst we're not geeky film followers, we have always enjoyed the scenery.  (*plus Lunenburg, Bridgewater and Chester all within the same area)

We half expected to find that the bridge he walks over to his house, with dog in tow, had an urban build behind the camera.  Far from it.  

It lived up to expectation and was really was quite beautiful, unspoilt, remote and peaceful.  Rocky shorelines, small inlets and islands, lapping waves and a sprinkling of fishing boats tied up close to the few houses at the end of the peninsula.  

Ironically the US made films are set in the fictional town of Paradise MA.  An apt description for the area.

Yours for CAD $695,000 (£373k)

It was 10km of single track road to get there with blind corners, rocky outcrops covered in mosses and lichens and little to no traffic.  It is not a wealthy area and it was surprising to see a number of properties for sale.  One caught our eye at $695,000 (£373,000).  The outdoor pictures associated with the listing really capture the area.   It is a bargain!!!! So take a look here.  If we weren't so tied to BC...........

Late morning we headed back to Lunenburg to explore the town and lunch.  

Lunenburg is a UNESCO World Heritage site and home to the famous (in Canada at least) Bluenose II sailing ship.  

It is full of history with architecture dating back to 1753 when the town was founded, though most properties date from the 18 & 19 centuries.  It has to be one of the top destinations if you ever get to this part of Canada.  Go early in the day as it gets busy with the likes of us travellers (aka tourists) including the occasional coach load.

Bluenose II and the Canadian dime
Taken from the Fish Shack

Bluenose II was launched in 1963 after it's predecessor (built as a racing yacht) struck a reef off Haiti on Jan 28th 1946.   Bluenose II is accessible to the public for a variety of sailing opportunities and also adorns the back of the Canadian dime (10c coin).  

As one of my sailing pals said: 

"Canadians have a few things we are proud and nostalgic about:  Bluenose II, Avro Arrow [a bit like the UK's Vulcan bomber], CanadaArm (on space shuttle),  the snowmobile, CN Tower, Basketball, Penicillin, Alexander Graham Bell  (Scottish Immigrant and later US based), Wayne Gretzky. (ice hockey), War of 1812, Vimy Ridge, and the Stubby beer bottle. 

Lunch was taken on the deck at The Fish Shack, with lovely views over the harbour.  Very windy, but warm.  We stuck with the tried and tested lobster rolls ... 'quelle surprise'.

A wander around town and Fred acquired some more knitting yarn and I bought two fresh 1.5 lb lobsters cooked, cracked and ready to take home for supper, seemed good value at $60 (£32).  They were still warm when we picked them up.

Back to the campsite and the rain started, and boy did it rain!  We joked about whether the trailer was too close to the creek.  I am pleased to report we did not get washed away overnight.  

Tuesday August 26th the return journey commenced with 450 km drive to a campground in NB and then two more long drives through Quebec before we arrive near Ottawa, to spend the weekend with Coast friends who live in Carleton Place. Monday September 1st we head to Huntsville for 3 nights, to get the truck serviced before starting the long slog across never ending Ontario.

Highway 20 - Quebec to Montreal alongside the
St Lawrence, clearly not the high road!

Campground at Rivière du Loop - Overlooking the bay on the St Lawrence.
It's been raining ever since we left.

Marmite crisis averted thanks to Nova Scotia

Lunenburg lobster with homemade dill potato salad!

Local food shack near Rayport Campground

The Mariner's Daughter yarn shop in colourful Lunenburg

Lunenburg The Fish Shack

 Bluenose II rear deck - immaculate condition

Church architecture in Mahone Bay

Mahone Bay train station - but no trains or rail line

Mahone Bay Architecture

Mahone Bay - Amos Pewter Artisan Atelier

TNT Campground NB

Bluenose II and the Canadian dime (from the Fish Shack deck)

The Fish Shack

Stonehurst South without Tom Selleck

Example of many rock flora across the rocky shoreline areas

Stonehurst South

Stonehurst South