Whistler Beckoned

A Mountain Escape

Mon Aug 22

Alta Lake, Whistler

A bit of a gap since the last blog as we’ve been on hols in Whistler.  Some might suggest we have been on holiday since we arrived in Canada April 3, 2021! 

The jumps and bumps will be flattened for the ski season

After a few months of tour guiding, which we have thoroughly enjoyed (a new career maybe?), it was time for a family catch-up.  Ros has been up in Whistler volunteering on Crankworx (the name similarity was purely coincidental).  Nick and Lizzie were in town either end of our week, so it was a last chance to spend time with Roz en-famile, before she headed back to NZ Sunday evening.  

Popular as a winter resort, there is just as much fun to be had in summer as there is when snow shrouds the town.   From October to April, trails are turned over to cross-country skiing, lakes are frozen and are largely left to be admired and the fun is up the alp.  In the summer, it's hiking, biking, sailing, canoeing, paddle boarding .......

Though much higher than the Coast, summer day-time temperatures can be several degrees warmer, with no sea breeze to take the edge off.   Last week Whistler averaged 33c.  Most pleasant until the humiidity crept up.

Long dog walks were an early morning activity.  Afternoons were spent at the many lakesides, in or on the water. Whistler has a different beauty in summer. It is a big resort. Though it describes itself as a village, it has a resident population of only 14,000, swelled by summer and winter visitors adding an average of 30,000 a day at peak times. 

Fine Dining in Creekside

That is less than half of the resident Coast population, . Despite the numbers, it does feel like a village.  The pine forests, low rise alpine architecture, the timber and stone finishes of buildings and planting (evident in summer), give it the feel of a series of interconnected village spaces.  The mountains, never far away from your field of view, tend to take your eye upwards.

We drove up Monday so I didn’t miss the Sunday sailing race.  Monday evening we had a family dinner at one of Creekside’s decent restaurants. Seb had his first ‘fine dining’ experience.  We enjoyed it on his behalf and he was an absolute delight chortling to the servers and enjoying his bottle, while we enjoyed ours! If you are ever in Creekside the Rimrock Cafe is to be recommended.  Book ahead! Nick and Lizzie headed back to Van after the dinner, to return the following Friday.

This was the first visit to Whistler where we did not venture up the mountain.  Ros and I had planned to do the Half Note/High Note trail, but I’d left my waterproofs back at Gibsons and thunderstorms were forecast on the day of the hike. It’s just over 9k with 670m of elevation.  It is a hard hike, but with absolutely stunning views from the top of Whistler Mountain looking down on Cheakamus Lake, a bright blue glacial lake, and across to the surrounding mountains.  Next time. This late in August it was surprising how much snow was still around at the top. A few weeks earlier in August 2021 there was a solitary snow bank at the top of Whistler peak.

The rest of the week was walking and paddle boarding around the lakes.

Me standing up!

On Thursday, we attempted to drive up the Cougar Mountain Forest Service Road (FSR), to hike the Ancient Cedars trail.  We got about half way up and I decided my Discovery Sport was no match for Nick and Lizzie’s Toyota 4Runner.  Plan B was to do the Train Wreck hike, but as we drove down the highway I lost all acceleration and engine power, though no warning light came on.  We limped to the Train Wreck trail car park and did the hike.

The train wreck occurred on August 11, 1956. Twelve box cars carrying timber took a corner too fast as they tried to make up time. Five were recovered, seven were dragged out of the way and became a living artwork with constantly changing graffiti. The beautiful bald eagle that was there last time has been painted over and sadly no longer visible. Some images below. The walk takes you alongside the Cheakamus River which roars through the steep canyon sides.

Returning to Creekside, the engine warning light came on and I still had no power.  Tricky on the highways and driving around the alps!  

The BC equivalent of the AA (BCAA - original yes?), offered to tow me to a garage which was of no help, because I needed a diagnostic check and could drive there myself, albeit slowly.

Rob’s auto shop took pity on me and ran the diagnostics half an hour later.  While waiting I admired the immaculate bright red 1954 Chevy truck, whose owner was checking out some  automatic and drive shaft upgrades, while I gently cooked in the forecourt.

The diagnostics suggested is was an air/fuel issue, though by now the lack of acceleration and loss of power problem had disappeared. I booked it in to my regular garage on the Coast for Tuesday. The next day, after having to put my foot down to avoid a truck, the orange light went out and all is now well.  Don’t you just love this modern auto-technology? 

Saturday, Nick and Ros did the mountain bike trails on Whistler mountain.  Ros went over the handlebars and bruised her shoulder and Nick had an encounter with a wasp in his cycle helmet. Both are recovering! Fred did some Seb sitting while Lizzie checked out the local spa and I went out in search of the Rocky Mountaineer, the sightseeing train that was due to pass through Whistler.  

The track from Vancouver via Whistler and Pemberton to the North, part of Canadian National’s network, is now only used for sightseeing trains.  It was briefly pressed into service for freight when the main lines were taken out last year by floods and forest fires that cut BC off from the rest of Canada. No more than six trains a week now pass through Whistler.  Such a waste and that iconic North American train whistle is almost history. 

Sunday we went our separate ways.  The rest of the clan headed back to Van and Ros’s flight to NZ, we took a leisurely drive back down the Sea to Sky with every intention of doing a trail or two and stopping off at Fegies for lunch. Mistake.

The first trail was a mosquito alley and we hadn’t bug sprayed up.   We headed off to Fergies.  At 1215 it was an hour’s wait for food, so we pressed on.  Exploring Squamish, we came across the Bean Cafe.  Brilliant coffee and good fresh sandwiches.  Lunch ended up alongside the 99 as parks were all full. We will not attempt a leisurely drive back on the Sea to Sky on a midsummer Sunday.  We pushed on to the ferry expecting a long wait, knowing we had a 1645 booking if all else failed.  To our complete surprise we drove straight down to the ‘kiosk’ and were ushered on to the 1425 (running 15 mins late), with 20% capacity still available.  We were home by 1600.  Ros arrived back in NZ late Monday, Coast time. 

The week ahead is catching up with stuff at home. The weather is set fair.  So walks, paddle boarding and enjoying the last rays of summer. Schools reopen around Sep 7 after a two month break.  The coast will return to a quieter, more leisurely pace.

Fred is Seb sitting today and fortunately went as a foot passenger for the 0840. Just as well.

The Queen of Surrey has a problem with its variable pitch propeller and is blocking the double height loading dock. The 0620 was cancelled and the Queen of Coquitlam was pressed into service, but only has access to the single height loading dock. It's sailing half full, every crossing during the day today is now 'full' and they are ticketing the evening boats already. QoC is also now running 30 mins late due to mechanical issues. Not a great day to be traveling by car to and from the Coast.

Cheakamus River - on the Train Wreck trail